Joe Rodgers – Montavilla News

On July 1st, Growler’s Taproom at 803 SE 82nd Avenue will change its name to Covert Cafe in recognition of its new food menu and expanded service. Patrons can continue to order from an extensive selection of beers on tap but now have access to an array of meaty dishes to pair with their brew of choice. Since its early days, the drink-focused business partnered with food cart operators to offer meal options for guests. However, after the Thai Me Drunken Noodle owner decided to shut down their 82nd Avenue cart, Covert Cafe owner Joe Rodgers looked to his past restaurant experience to fill the void.

Inside the cafe, Rodgers pushed the counter seating forward to make room for a commercial flat-top grill and food prep area in a triangular kitchen behind the bar. That work caused a week’s long closure but added more seats for the returning customers. The original live-edge bartop became window seating, and Rodgers updated the sound system with tablet-based controls for quick adjustments.

Efficiency is essential to running the cafe, as Rodgers is the only employee. Covering food service and bartender duties will challenge his skills. However, he is no stranger to working alone and has run the location by himself for five years. His food service skills were honed at an early age making this work second nature. “I’ve been doing bar and restaurant stuff since I was 14, I did 16 years in the kitchen, and then I wised up and got a front-of-house job so I could make more money,” remembered Rodgers. He then worked as a consultant helping other business owners optimize their operations. Eventually, an opportunity lured him back into hospitality work, and it has consumed his life since. “Finally, I ended up deciding to do it for myself because I’ve not seen enough people go crazy trying to do it,” said Rodgers sarcastically.

Over the last few weeks, Rodgers tested recipes with his regulars, finding the right flavor notes. The menu is unique compared to the cart offerings guest had become accustomed to. It features comfort foods with a significant meat focus. “I do lots of steak because I buy half the cow at a time,” explained Rodgers. He chose quality food items that would keep prices within reason. “I’m trying to focus on the idea of not pricing out my neighborhood,” explained Rodgers. However, that attention to cost and his need for efficiency does not mean the cafe needs to cut corners. “My bacon jam takes 16 hours to make. Everything in it is made from scratch in-house.” Similarly, he prepares the other menu items with the same attention to process.

Rodgers explained that the name change to Covert Cafe is a nod to the location’s inconspicuous placement. “We’re kind of hidden. Nobody really expects that this place is here.” He is comfortable with some anonymity, as the cafe focuses on serving the neighborhood, but he looks forward to increasing his customer base and, ultimately, the cafe’s hours. “The whole goal is to get busy enough that I can’t do it anymore. Then I freak out and hire somebody.” With enough money coming in, Rodgers envisions opening for breakfast and lunch sometime in the future. He already has a space plumbed and ready for an espresso machine.

For Rodgers, the renovation work is nearly done. He recently finished expanding his outdoor covered seating area, taking over the space once reserved for carts. He built the new addition with few openings, blocking most light and providing a more enjoyable viewing environment for those watching the projected programming in the “mini movie theater” on the patio. Entertainment, games, beer, and food play into the harmonious community that frequents this location. Now that he has integrated food service into the business, instead of through a cart partnership, Rodgers feels customers will have a reliably great experience, which is what he wants most. “Community is a huge piece of what we do here, and I just want to make everybody happy with a good meal,” said Rodgers. Covert Cafe is open from 4 p.m. to midnight, Wednesday through Sunday.

Jacob Loeb

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*Thai Me Drunken Noodle has a burger focused cart at the Hawthorne Asylum Food Cart Pod*

After an unexpected delay, Thai Me Drunken Noodle will officially open at 803 SE 82nd Avenue this Wednesday, July 13th. Cart operator Tyler Pathammavong has quietly served guests from this location over the last few days. Now, he is ready to welcome the full volume of customers looking for his Northern Thai-style fried chicken and noodle dishes. The food cart follows Growler’s Taproom operating hours of 4 p.m. to 12 a.m., Wednesday through Friday, and 2 p.m. to 12 a.m. on Weekends.

Article first published May 18th, 2022.

Later this month, Thai Me Drunken Noodle will open a food cart connected to Growler’s Taproom at 803 SE 82nd Avenue. The new eatery fills the space left vacant by Erica’s Soul Food, which relocated to 120 NE Russell Street earlier this year. Unlike previous carts working from this location, the food and beer businesses will partner to offer a unified dining destination and operate as a single location.

Tyler Pathammavong has operated the original Thai Me Drunken Noodle cart at 2810 NE Glisan Street for the past six months. That location started after Pathammavong sold his other businesses to new owners and focused on a Northern Thai-style fried chicken and noodle-centric menu. He has seventeen years of experience cooking Thai and Laotian dishes, a passion that began after his younger brother immigrated from Laos and started working in the industry. A natural hard worker, Pathammavong’s food service career paralleled his 25 years at the United States Postal Service (USPS). Now retired from the USPS, Tyler Pathammavong and his wife Leng are refocusing all efforts on their food creations.

*Thai Me Drunken Noodle at NE 28th Ave and Glisan Street*

The Thai Me Drunken Noodle menu takes inspiration from the owner’s appetites and the foods his mother taught him to prepare. “I just cook whatever I [would] wanna eat at home,” explained Tyler Pathammavong. The cart’s specialty is a Laotian-style fried chicken served over sticky rice with a sauce made from a family recipe. Embracing the shared culinary history of Laos and Northern Thailand, Pathammavong transforms the traditional recipes with a personal adaptation that creates a one-of-a-kind menu. Outside of the chicken, most dishes forgo the traditional white rice and instead feature noodles. “My [dishes] might not be exactly like most Thai food, ’cause I use everything noodle, even in my Curry.” Said Pathammavong.

Although the Northeast Portland cart will remain open for a while, the partnership with Growler’s Taproom is the long-term focus for the cart operator. The taproom’s owner, Joe Rodgers, explained that the new cart is an extension of his business. “It’s more of a brick and mortar kind of feel, but we are adjusting it where the kitchen is in the cart.” The food and bar service will maintain the same hours and offer a combined food and beer menu. Currently, Growler’s is open Wednesday through Sunday from 4 p.m. to Midnight. Rodgers plans to expand the hours to feature an earlier 2 p.m. start and a seven-day-a-week schedule when the food service begins.

Joe Rodgers and Tyler Pathammavong are actively working on an updated menu to pair with the beer selections. The partners are also working to integrate food service into Growler’s popular Star Trek trivia, live music, movies, and comedy nights. Look for schedules and updates at the Growler’s Taproom website. For those who want to preview some of the creations coming later this May, consider stopping by the Thai Me Drunken Noodle cart at 2810 NE Glisan Street.

Jacob Loeb

Promotion: Montavilla News has a Patreon account. We invite those who can contribute to this local news source to please consider becoming a paid subscriber or sponsor. We will always remain free to read regardless of subscription.