In the bustling Shibuya section of Tokyo, Japan, PDX Taproom offers a slice of Portland craft beer culture to travelers and locals alongside a healthy serving of the City’s charm. During my two-week stint working abroad, I had the opportunity to visit the ten-year-old pub started by Miyuki Hiramatsu. I found a Portland-themed establishment that accurately represents our City’s brewing stature and embodies some of the Rose City’s more endearing features.
Gigantic Brewing Company – Gravity Drop IPA served at the PDX Taproom Tokyo, Japan
Hiramatsu studied in the Portland area for several years in the early 90s, attending Wilson High School (now named Ida B. Wells-Barnett High School) and Linfield College (known as Linfield University as of 2020). She returned to her home in Tokyo, where she worked for Columbia Sportswear Japan before opening PDX Taproom. In a posted note to visitors, Hiramatsu explained how her business embodies two passions that she now shares with the people of her native City. “I LOVE Portland and craft beer so much that I decided to open a bar of my own so I can deliver Portland culture, community, lifestyle, and trend to people.”
PDX Taproom guest book with message from owner Miyuki Hiramatsu
Portland team sports are well represented at PDX TaproomTriMet and Portland Loo adorn the restroom The iconic Portland tagline is presentCraft brew stickers decorate the keg cooler
PDX Taproom’s bartender explained he had visited Portland once in 2018 and greatly enjoyed his visit. Despite having only stayed in the City once, he feels well-connected to Rip City thanks to the consistent stream of Portlanders walking through the door. Since starting there, he estimates that at least three PDX residents walk into the taproom each day. That steady traffic of Rose City residents has recently increased to five daily visitors after a video by Wesleigh Ogle with KATU highlighted the bar’s unique theming. Some days, up to ten people from Oregon order a brew and talk about their home with the people behind the counter, adding to the staff’s knowledge of the City nearly 4,900 miles away.
After exchanging stickers with the bartender, we spoke about his next trip to Portland. I extended an invitation to come to Montavilla to sample our local brews and introduce him to the diverse culinary creations offered by our food carts, which pair perfectly with the City’s brewing culture. People traveling to Tokyo can visit PDX Taproom at 〒150-0001 Tokyo, Shibuya, Jingumae, 5 Chome−30−2 2F. Let them know you are from Portland, and they will offer you a special sticker to document your trip to Portland’s Japanese taproom outpost.
Disclosure: this meal was comped but my opinions are my own.
Thang Long Cuisine, located in the former Thai Fresh space, opened in April of this year. They have been updating their menu recently, and I was invited to stop by and taste a few things on it. The publisher of the Montavilla News, Jacob Loeb, was my dining companion.
Some Background
As explained in a previous article on this site, “Thang Long Cuisine opened in the former Thai Fresh location at 8409 SE DivisionStreet in late April, replacing HÂP Fresh, which briefly occupied the space.” Minh Pham and his mother, Thuy Nguyen, run the place and are happy to feature Vietnamese dishes from the northern half of the country. We felt fortunate that Thuy was cooking for us this afternoon.
Minh met us in the dining room and offered us any seat in the house, as we were the sole diners there at the time. The dining room is simple yet spacious, and the decor is what I would call minimalist—a series of bamboo steamer basket layers affixed to the wall, some large windows in the front, and a color scheme of red, black, and white throughout.
Bamboo steamer basket (Meg Cotner)
Jacob and I come from different points on the eating spectrum (he is vegan, I am not) but there were options for both of us. The first thing that came out was an appetizer: A salmon cocktail salad for me, cucumber salad for him.
Thang Long Cuisine dragon logo (Jacob Loeb)
Appetizers
I really enjoyed the freshness of the salmon cocktail, which did not strike me as something I’d normally find in a Vietnamese restaurant. It was served in a large martini glass, with small, tender cubes of raw salmon accompanied by fresh fruit and vegetables—crunchy red bell pepper, sweet-tart pineapple bits, and what I believe was apple, though it could have been jicama (as is specified on the description), and some dill; cucumber was missing from the dish, though included in the dish’s description. Regardless, this was a great way to start the meal—the salmon was savory, set against the fruitiness of the other ingredients with a mix of textures, yielding a sweet, bright entry to our meal. I also loved its primary aroma of bell peppers.
Salmon cocktail (Meg Cotner)
We asked if salmon is something you’d see in traditional Vietnamese cuisine, and were assured that it wasn’t, but was a nod to the PNW and its bounty.
The cucumber salad consisted of a pile of cucumbers sliced into rounds with a fluted edge, and was flavored with scallions and cilantro, topped with sesame seeds and sat in a light sweet sauce. Cucumber and cilantro is such a winning combination, and the sauce pulled everything together; I also liked how the sauce did not impede the natural crunchy texture of the cucumber. If you love cucumber, this is for you.
Cucumber salad (Jacob Loeb)
They also served us a plate of vegan egg rolls, which were air-fried, not deep fried. Honestly, for me they were just ok; there was not much in the way of depth of flavor going on. However, I did really like their shape and size. That said, I would not order these again.
Vegan egg rolls (Meg Cotner)
At this point, the dining room started to feel a little warm. But we had these nice lime mojito mocktails to keep us cool. Note: the base is made with a mix, but I was pleasantly surprised to find that it was not overly sweet or artificial tasting, which you get sometimes with premade mixers. The fresh mint packed a perfect herbal punch and added so much to the drink. I mean … mint and lime? Classic combination.
Lime mojito mocktail (Meg Cotner)
I’ll add that they have applied for a full on-premises liquor license, and will be serving cocktails and such when they have that in hand.
Square Crab Spring Roll
This spring roll is a specialty of Hai Phong city (a port city in northern Vietnam). Normally, you’ll see it served alongside Bun Cha. I love its square shape and how visually different it is from the more common tube shape.
Square crab springroll (Meg Cotner)
It was wonderfully crispy (the skin is made with a rice wrapper, not a wheat-based wrapper), and contained a filling of mostly-smooth ground crab (real crab, not surimi) that did not have any overly bright or herbal flavors in it (traditionally it includes shrimp, too). The filling flavor was warm and mellow, no spiciness, savory but not salty. It is very much a kind of comfort food.
I enjoyed the texture—both the filling and exterior. The crispness due to the rice paper fried in hot oil is super appealing, both texturally and aurally, especially when you first bite into it. The only drawback was that it was a little oily on the side sitting on the plate, but that did not stop me from eating both pieces, happily.
Bun Cha
Vermicelli noodles and herbs (Meg Cotner)
We were both served Bun Cha—vegan for Jacob, pork for me. The pork version is the traditional treatment. From the Thang Long menu: “Bun cha Hanoi is a quintessential Northern Vietnamese dish that brings together smoky, succulent meat patties and pork belly slices in an umami-rich dipping sauce with tender vermicelli noodles, vibrant herbs, and crunchy pickles for a comforting and satisfying meal.” But this is Portland, and vegan options are a real plus on any menu.
Carrots and papaya in broth (Meg Cotner)
The vegan version had beautiful thin slices of carrot and paper-thin shavings of papaya floating in the sauce. The pork version included the aforementioned ground pork patties and pork belly along with the pickled carrot and papaya.
Both of our dishes came with a plate containing a healthy mound of warm vermicelli noodles accompanied by a pile of fresh herbs, including mint, cilantro, basil, Thai basil, betel leaf, some lettuce, as well as slices of cucumber and hot peppers. The mix of noodles, herbs, sauce, and meat/veg is truly a mastery of flavors and textures. And while I find the basils and cilantro to be old friends as far as flavor goes, the betel leaf always surprises and delights me when I start to chew it. I know it’s considered bitter and spicy, but I find a kind of nuttiness in it, too. It’s really delicious.
And I think my favorite taste of the meal was the ground pork patty in the Bun Cha (actually, two of them). Their humble look belied major good taste—porky, warm, and rich with a kind of meatiness that is deeply satisfying. Frankly, I could eat them every day.
Bun Cha (Meg Cotner)
The above description of the sauce was right on target with the “umami-rich” description. A little sweetness was in there, too.
Tofu Salad Rolls
After the Bun Cha was served, we were offered these chunky salad rolls that featured a wide slice of fried tofu. Normally I see salad rolls containing raw tofu, so the fried tofu was new to me. Along with it was lettuce, vermicelli, jicama, and peanut dipping sauce.
Salad rolls with tofu and peanut dipping sauce (Jacob Loeb)
I loved the various kinds of crunch in the roll, especially the fried edges of the tofu, but the peanut sauce was not my cup of tea. It was too thick, like peanut butter rather than a sauce, no detectable sweetness (though a little spicy, which I liked), and tasted somewhat one-dimensional to me.
Dessert
We were served a small metal ramekin of creme brulee and a plate of red grapes on the stem. It was a really nice way to end the meal. I have never found a creme brulee I haven’t liked, so I was eager to try it.
And my streak of accessing tasty creme brulee continues. Very nice texture, a hint of ginger, and the small size was really appealing. There wasn’t a very thick caramelized sugar topping, but it was there, meaning it did not overwhelm the lightly sweet custard below.
Creme brulee (Meg Cotner)
Dumpling Regrets
I do regret not asking for any of their dumplings, as they are quite popular, so that will have to be for another day.
Overall, I enjoyed my meal and the comforting, easy-going flavors on their menu. This food is not “in your face” or aggressive. It’s very friendly, lighthearted, and comforting. Many thanks to Thuy and Minh for having us. Thang Long Cuisine can be found at 8409 SE Division Street in Portland.
Meg Cotner lives in NE Portland and is the editor and publisher of the independent Portland food news website Bridgetown Bites. She is also an active editor and writer, and the author of “Food Lovers’ Guide to Queens” (2023, Globe Pequot Press)
Six years ago, the apartments at 7706 & 7718 SE WashingtonStreet went before the Montavilla Neighborhood Association (MNA) for design review. The building designer described the process as challenging and laments some of the changes made to address neighborhood concerns.
There were very few multi-story apartments proposed for Montavilla in 2014. The designer of the project, Kym Nguyen of Concept Design and Associates LLC, recalled a great deal of opposition from the community. “They were strongly against it as I think this was the only [project with] multiple units proposed in that area. They said it would ruin the neighborhood.”
In preparation for the apartment’s design review, the Montavilla Neighborhood Association (MNA) posted the project’s images and descriptions on their Facebook page. Lew Scholl was the Land Use and Transportation Chair for MNA in 2014. In correspondence with Nguyen, Scholl shared some community criticism the project received on Facebook. Comments centered around the roofline and lack of on-site parking.
Much of Facebook criticism echoed through public commentary at the October 2014 MNA meeting. “It was a very interesting meeting process, some very rude [people] and some being cautious [with] what they were saying,” described Nguyen. Lew Scholl did not recall the MNA meeting as being highly critical of the project. “There were no highly controversial issues about what was proposed… Some comments were posted on the MNA Facebook Group about parking that she brought up with the owners, but she was not able (nor required) to provide on-site parking. The development met the city’s zoning code, and no variances were requested.”
The commentary offered at the meeting advanced the project towards a publicly acceptable design. However, not all changes desired by neighboring residents were possible. “The zoning at this site back then is R1, which limited the height, along with the setback and building plan. It was challenging on the design to have parking on-site, so I recommended to have two levels and only two parking [spaces] available at the rear of the site.” Explained Nguyen.
Criticism of the roofline and zoning height restrictions forced Nguyen to choose a more conventional hip roof for the final design. She felt it was an unfortunate compromise. The high peak created by a modern one side shed roof allowed for a vaulted ceiling on the second floor. Taller walls could bring more light into the living space by accommodating larger windows. Nguyen imagined those elements would have enhanced the perceived beauty felt by the occupants. There were also practical advantages to the original roof design. Rainwater management would run along just one side of the roof instead of the entire parameter, creating a cleaner aesthetic and providing easier maintenance.
Ultimately the builder made more compromises towards conventional design. Standard vinyl windows replace unequal split sash windows. The building’s color pallet changed from dark to light, and cladding highlights became muted by material and paint.
Examining past projects like this can be helpful as we enter a new era of density in Montavilla. Changes in zoning during the last six years encourage more multi-story projects in neighborhoods. Now is a good time for the community to consider how multi-family buildings will fit into the area. Apartments by their nature will not look like a classic single-family home. Residents will need to come to terms with that and start to think about what features of large buildings will comfortably fit in the community.
Original design. Concept Design and Associates LLCUpdated design after MNA meeting. Concept Design and Associates LLCDesign update addressing roofline concerns. Concept Design and Associates LLCApartments as built
In a scene reminiscent of the 1800s boomtown, Montavilla is lining its main streets with roughly constructed wood structures. These Parking Plazas first took the shape of roped-off areas along the street’s edge. A handful of tables were set in the place once used for parked cars, and customers were seated for an open-air experience. This experiment is an effort to offer dining in the era of COVID-19, and it has been successful during the summer months.
Customers came to their favorite bars and restraints, enjoying the novel setting along the street. Soon the ropes became fences, and then canopies appeared over some Parking Plazas. Now we see the addition of substantial structures with roofs—string lights inside zigzag along the ceiling, ready for the coming early-sunset. Montavilla businesses are preparing for a long fall and winter of outdoor dining, as the pandemic lasts longer than expected.
Vintage Cocktail Lounge seating.
The weather has not yet turned cold and rainy, but we will feel the wet chill around us within two months. At that time, there will be a test on outdoor seating’s viability in the Pacific Northwest. Will people brave the cold for the social interactions we gain by going out?
2020 is the year of uncertainty, and the building along our streets is the best attempt to beat uncertainty with preparation. Hopefully, the people of modern Montavilla are as hearty as those who first created these streets two hundred years ago—joining our neighbors for a drink and meal on a cold and damp evening.
Shared Roscoe’s and Miyamoto seatingRedwood’s mid September roof addition.
Our Academy Theater has anchored Montavilla Town since its opening in 1948. It closed as a theater in the 1970s and operated as an office. 2006 saw its return to glory as a movie house. Modern issues have threatened the viability of the Academy Theater. Whether it was the conversion from film to digital or a electrical fire, the community has supported it. We all know how valuable it is, not just for the entertainment they provide, but also as an icon of our neighborhood.
So once again we need to show our continued support. Please consider buying a Gift card.
It may feel like Oregon is on the cusp of reopening, but some businesses will have to wait longer than others to serve patrons again. Places of mass gathering will not be opening quickly. Even when opened, people may be scared to go to the movies. Things will get better but if we want to enjoy the future as it was before, we will have to invest in it now.
Very few terms in architecture and city planning are met with as much impashioned opinions as the Rowhouse. It has been associated with an image of poverty and bland living. However, attach the name Brownstone to a street of similar shaped houses with shared walls, many have a more positive view. The Rowhouse exists all over the world and in many different iterations. Consequently, the way you feel about them could have more to do with were you grew up and the media you watch.
Row houses offer affordable ownership without a HOA fee and offer more expressive freedom to residents than a condo. It is attractive to first time home buyers and people who could never afford the prices of a detached home. These positives have been countered by negative economic changes for the areas where these houses were built. Clusters of lower cost properties, over time, will turn neighborhoods into a blight on the city. This can happen to any centralized location of affordability. When a neighborhood only has one class of housing, residents must move away as soon as they can afford a better home. When a flow of financially stable people move out of an area, that drives down the property value for the people who remain. A few cycles of that migration will devastate the value of an area.
The biggest failing of the classic Rowhouse in america, has been its location in a sea of identical buildings. As a solution for density they can be a great solution, as long as architecturally and socially they meet a high standard. Dim, skinny houses, made from inferior material is bad building regardless of if it’s in a row or detached. If a substantial width is preserved, greater that 18 feet, a house will feel comfortable.
The properties pictured above are not row houses, but instead are classified as Townhouse condos. 603 NE 92nd Ave is owned by ADS Properties LLC. All five residences share the same lot, although they have different street numbers. Many people think of Townhouse as a nice term for a Rowhouse and there is endless debate on if that is true. The one thing stopping anyone from calling these row houses or Townhouses, is the lack of distinct parcels of land with independent ownership.
Despite its distinction from being a Rowhouse development, the scale of this project is perhaps the ideal length for row houses. Although this is a large block of housing, it occupies less than a quarter block. Most other residences around it are detached single family homes, making it more acceptable to the community standard. Row Houses can cost less but do not have to be cheap. With a mixed block approach to row houses, if the residents want to upgrade their homes, they can find options in the same area.
Infill houses are trying to squeeze into spaces that make them awkward and ugly. This is all in the name of maintaining a slim yard between houses. That land between two houses is often wasted and could have been used to add an additional five feet to the width of the house. Housing density is a good thing when balanced with other housing. We should be inspired by solutions in between an apartment and a detached house. Good city planning is based on selectively saying yes to different housing ideas, not maintaining uniformity in neighborhoods.
Additional Reading on Row Houses – American Planning Association offers a detailed look into the Rowhouse, past and present. The Urban Omnibus, a publications of The Architectural League of New York, also provides a social and historical look at the Rowhouse.
One of the two Family Fun RV locations along SE 82nd Ave, is noticeably devoid of any RVs. They have consolidated their inventory of new and used RVs to the 333 SE 82nd Ave location. All branding and signage remains up, however the lot looks empty.
When reached for comment, a representative from Family Fun RV said the 1027 SE 82nd Ave location is still in use as a service location. He further explained that due to the current social distancing in effect, they have decided to keep only one location open to shoppers.
It is Family Fun RV’s intention to reopen the 1027 SE 82nd Ave location for sales, and balance the inventory between both locations. However this is dependant on when restrictions are lifted.
It has almost been a month of empty streets and closed shops. Even if you are safe and secure during this time, you are looking around at the businesses in the neighborhood and hoping they will survive. There are some programs to help these small businesses but not enough, and certainly they are not timely in providing the help needed. Those programs are for established businesses trying to make it through the forced closures. However, they do not cover establishments that have not opened their doors for the first time. We have many businesses in Montavilla that are mid construction.
The Oregonian has an article detailing the struggle of four restaurants and bars that had all been scheduled to open in Montavilla town. In the article, the owners of White Rabbit, Tinker Tavern, Lazy Susan, and Sebastiano’s all lend their voice to the story of uncertainty around us. No business in Montavilla is immune to the financial hardships being felt right now but the ones that have yet to see their first customer, are proving to be the most vulnerable.
All is not lost for these future landmarks of Montavilla. Some should be able to postpone plans. Others are adjusting the business to fit what is practical right now. Andrew Mace, of Lazy Susan, is quoted in The Oregonian article as being thankful they did not hire staff yet.
Unlike other shops with staff, payroll and unemployment is one burden the new locations in Montavilla are not contending with. There are many established businesses in our area that need cash flow to keep some of their staff employed.
Brian Stafki put together a Google Sheet of Montavilla, and other nearby businesses, that are open or offering services in an alternative form. If you can continue to give them business, please do.
The Montavilla East Tabor Business Association has created a COVID-19 Info and Resources page that has some additional information about its members, during this prolonged shutdown.
Tucked in the back of a micro shopping complex on SE 82nd Ave, is a new Montavilla dining destination. Erica’s Soul Food opened at the beginning of 2020 and it can be easy to miss if you are not looking for it. It is located in a food cart attached to the back half of the Henry’s Market building at 803 SE 82nd Ave, adjacent to Growler’s Taproom. Growler’s Taproom shares a covered patio with Erica’s Soul Food, offering a good mix of drink and food options at one table.
My wife and I are a difficult pair to accommodate at restaurants. I eat Vegan and my wife eats everything but does not like Vegan only food. Fortunately Erica’s Soul Food offers a wide range of sides that are all Vegan. They were able to make an impressive plate of sides into a filling meal.
The food is an appropriate amount of spicy for soul food. Hot sauce is not needed, the heat is cooked in. All the flavors were surprising and vibrant, while being true to the dishes origin. The Vegan Mac & Cheese turned the plate of sides into a full meal and begged to be completely devoured.
My wife spent a decade of her formative years in the South. So she was excited to find a soul food spot so close to home and not over priced. She too found it spicy and good. Although she would not call it southern soul food, it is definitely a good spot. She lamented the lack of Fried Green Tomatoes on the menu but there is plenty of other dishes to try and I suspect my wife will work her way through them all.
We both will be returning soon, friends in tow. Erica’s Soul Food has a strong Instagram presence and orders can be delivered by GrubHub. Best of all, it is walking distance for many in Montavilla. I highly recommend you give them a visit.
