In early 2024, City Noise Records will relocate from NE Broadway to 7035 NE Glisan Street. Next door at 7033 NE Glisan Street, the owner of the punk and metal music store will launch a new beer and wine bar called Replicant with his partner Lydia Crumbley. Renovation crews working on the 1917-era storefronts encountered some age-related complications, but work is now well underway for a mid-March or April opening.
The 810-square-foot bar’s name originates from the 1982 sci-fi movie Blade Runner. The film featured synthetic humans known as replicants, hunted in a futuristic Los Angeles. Bar and record store owner Gianpiero Milani is a fan of the film and will use it for some of the bar’s theming. However, co-owner Lydia Crumbley explained they will not attempt to recreate a bar environment from the film. Replicant will offer non-alcoholic drinks alongside beer and wine, with a food menu that includes vegan options.
The bar and record shop connect through a hallway, allowing people to move between the two locations as they drink and shop. The record store will utilize its new 516-square-foot storefront to increase the music genres offered and add more products. In addition to vinyl and cassette-based albums, the shop features books, magazines, jewelry, and apparel. The back portion of the music store will contain City Noise’s growing online order fulfillment business, shipping across the country.
Crumbley and Milani chose this Montavilla location because of its proximity to their home and the rare option to combine the existing store with a new bar. The shop is also near Crumbley’s Certified Public Accountant business, located above the Bipartisan Cafe on SE Stark Street. The two record store employees will transfer to this new location by April, joining a bar manager working next door. Replicant will serve guests from 3 to 10 p.m. every day except Mondays. City Noise Records will maintain its hours of noon to 7 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, with similar hours on Sundays but closing at 6 p.m. Look for work to pick up pace in January and February, with a soft open anticipated for March.
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On December 2nd, HÂP Fresh will open in the former Thai Fresh location at 8409 SE Division Street. After four months of renovations and planning, the Asian fusion restaurant is ready to seat customers and serve its renowned handmade dumplings. This purveyor of Asian comfort food prides itself on fresh ingredients served into the midnight hours.
HÂP Fresh is the fourth restaurant recently opened by Nasy Chan with partner Thomas Trieu. Two locations are north of Portland in Vancouver and Carson, Washington. The first Oregon location previously opened in Gresham but paused operations due to a staffing issue. It is now open again, and the Portland shop will soon join it. The restaurant owners have plans to add made-to-order menu items to the SE Division Street location, where patrons select ingredients similar to how MOD Pizza assembles pies. They will offer custom salad rolls, roll-your-own bun options, and build-to-order banh mi sandwiches. However, the delayed start in Gresham has driven up costs, so the owners pushed back the customization plans to focus on having all locations ready. “We’ve been paying rent for both locations and not opening. We can’t do this anymore, so we have to open,” explained Chan.
HÂP Fresh will launch with their dumpling-focused menu led by chef Gulian Lui, who has a history of making the dish at some of Portland’s more notable restaurants. His creations complement Chan’s dishes, influenced by the foods of Cambodia, Thailand, China, and Vietnam. Chan grew up in many places before moving to the United States at age eight. “I’ve lived in the Philippines. I lived in Thailand and Malaysia. I lived in Cambodia and Vietnam. We moved around a lot during the war, so I experienced different areas,” recalled Chan. Traveling between communities early in life and her parents’ diverse mix of cultures influenced Chan’s tastes. “My mom is 100% Vietnamese, and my dad is Chinese Cambodian. So I learned a lot about their food cultures and combine them all the time,” said Chan.
Nasy Chan learned to cook early in life from her mother, an accomplished street food vendor. She understood that when her mother was sick and unable to cook for the family, it was up to her to fill that role. It is just one of the many instances where Chan embraced adversity as an opportunity to grow stronger. She opened her first restaurant at 21 years old and had a successful career managing chain fast food restaurants. However, her husband’s mismanagement of family finances and an illness that took his life left Chan with practically nothing. The last few years have been about rebuilding for Chan, but from a place of understanding that the community support she has received is up to her to pass along. Much like Thai Fresh before it, HÂP Fresh embraces the idea of community fundraising and support. From the Vancouver location, HÂP restaurant has held fundraisers for a family whose child has a life-shortening illness. Chan is also receptive to other opportunities to support the neighborhood around her restaurants.
Community involvement is a core component of the business, but Nasy Chan knows that her food needs to be memorable to keep people coming back. She uses her life experiences to craft authentic foods that remind people of their family recipes. The detail and time put into her dishes have made her popular with the Cambodian community and other groups with heritage from the region where she grew up. Although tradition plays into the menu, HÂP Fresh has fun with items, making new combinations and creating festive-themed creations. They also offer vegan and gluten-free options with additional substitutions upon request.
HÂP Fresh serves customers late into the evening, with many orders coming in after the dinner rush. They are open from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. The rest of the week, they are available from 11 a.m. to midnight, covering lunch, dinner, and late-night meals. They support many traditional food delivery apps, and their counter-service model makes it easy to order takeout or dine-in. They will offer a 20% discount through December to celebrate their opening and encourage people to try their menu. Customers interested in catering services should call (360)-828-8736 or email customerService@HapRestaurant.com.
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Earlier this year, Mexican-themed fast-casual restaurant Baja Fresh closed its 10090 SE Washington Street location at the outer edge of Mall 205. Last week, architects working for the Chipotle chain submitted building permits for a new store at the same address. Both brands position themselves in a similar space within the corporate foodservice marketplace. However, Chipotle offers a smaller menu of core items and substantially more locations than Baja Fresh.
Recently, all Baja Fresh franchise locations in Portland have ceased operations, including the Mall 205 store. Both of these fast-casual dining brands started in the early 1990s and attracted many of the same customers. Baja Fresh was first to the Portland market and established a strong presence. However, early investment from the McDonald’s corporation helped launch Chipotle into a national brand. McDonald’s divested financial interest in Chipotle by 2006, but by then, the restaurants specializing in bowls, tacos, and Mission burritos had already become well-known across the United States, outpacing many competitors.
Chipotle location map with MV News illustrations
The Mall 205 Chipotle is several months away from opening. Building permits for a new serving area, restrooms, office, commercial kitchen, and walk-in cooler are pending approval. Plans can change anytime and may not result in the store’s opening. However, this location fills a service gap for the company, situated between its Cascade Station and Clackamas Town Center stores. This Mall 205 Chipotle location would join another popular fast-food chain planned for this area. This month, Chick-fil-A received approval to construct a restaurant within the existing structure at 9950 SE Stark Street. Both these developments will increase traffic to the area during peak dining times. However, they will not offer drive-through service and both have on-site parking available, reducing the likelihood that lines will back up onto the street.
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October 4th, Sebastiano’s announced their intention to close the original Montavilla location at 411 SE 81st Avenue and move operations to Sellwood. The transition will happen in early 2024 after completing construction at the new shopfront. For the owners, this difficult choice resulted from steady growth and a pragmatic investment in their business.
Since opening in June 2020, Sebastiano’s Sicilian Deli has increased its citywide brand and expanded its customer base, often bumping into the limits of the sub-700 square foot storefront on SE 81st. The pandemic prevented the store from offering indoor seating at launch. By the time restrictions were lifted on table service, kitchen operations had already expanded to take over the entire shop. Over the years, owners Elise and Daniel Gold invested in sidewalk coverings, parking lot tents, and food trucks as a way to make their constrained space support onsite dining while expanding their offerings.
In May, the Golds leased a second location at 8235 SE 13th Avenue to serve as a production kitchen. A healthy farmers market presence, event popups, and diverse menu items require a full commercial kitchen that will not fit in their current location. Even as they worked on that new 2000-square-foot space, the Golds intended to keep Montavilla at the center of their business. However, the kitchen space at SE 13th and Umatilla Street had enough floor area to support a respectable amount of customer seating, and the other restaurants around the Sellwood storefront were creating substantial foot traffic.
The opportunity to create a quality indoor dining experience for their customers appealed to Daniel Gold, and it was not something he could accomplish in the existing Montavilla storefront. “All the cool and quirky things that we’ve gotten good at – whether it’s popups, aperitivo, special meals or, you name it – in that [new] space, we can do those sorts of things on a daily basis and provide seating.” Even before completing renovations, the purpose of the Sellwood shop shifted towards a full restaurant format and a true second location.
With rising build-out cost and cautionary tales from other multi-location restaurant owners, the reality of running two locations became apparent and now seem excessively ambitious to the Golds. Although the couple are no strangers to taking on business challenges, running both restaurants full-time would stretch the family business thinner than they would like. The practical choice is to focus on one location that can serve all their needs and free up a mighty micro kitchen for another startup business. Daniel Gold feels the affordable space that hosted their creation is one of the factors that helped Sebastiano’s pass the three-year mark where most restaurants fail. He is looking for another fledgling business seeking the same opportunity they had to take over the Montavilla space.
Even after transitioning to Sellwood in the new year, Sebastiano’s will continue its Montavilla presence at the Farmer’s Market and potentially hold special events with other businesses. Daniel Gold expressed sadness regarding this change. The connections within the community have been greater than he imagined when starting this journey, and he hopes people will still support them in their choice. There are still several months before Sebastiano’s moves, and all their regular customers will find an enhanced dining experience at the new Sellwood location in 2024.
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Friday, September 22nd, the newest T4.Tea For franchise opened along SE 82nd Avenue, across from the Portland Community College campus. Later this month, Wing Kee Noodle will open within this same location at 2320 SE 82nd Avenue. The two establishments, run by a brother and sister team, will share dining space and kitchen resources but offer independent menus.
The bubble tea shop is the inaugural business of owner Yiwen Li. He was a fan of the T4 brand, and that attracted him to the franchise opportunity. “I personally like bubble tea and always go to the Clackamas [T4]. They have a lot of business, and I think this [brand] has potential. So I decided to invest in it,” explained Li. While looking for a suitable location for their joint venture, Yiwen Li and his sister Bingbing Li found the former Mixteca Mexican Restaurant building. They remodeled the interior within two months and only recently updated store signage showing both business names. Yiwen will focus on the T4 operations, and Bingbing will concentrate on the Wing Kee Noodle shop. Each restaurant will have its own counter and present a different dining aesthetic.
Yiwen Li describes the T4 boba shop as a universally accessible location satisfying the taste of all ages and groups in the area. Wing Kee Noodle will attract a more mature patron looking for a relaxed Chinese-style noodle shop. He feels that the two locations will complement each other, and the expanded menu options across both businesses will ensure guests find a satisfying meal in a single establishment.
Both siblings are new to food service operations, but they are not inexperienced. Their father has worked as a chef for over 20 years and was instrumental in setting up the restaurant’s kitchen for success. That solid foundation in the back-of-house operations and a lifetime living around the food service industry has the new restauranteurs confident they will build a thriving destination. The T4 Boba shop is offering a $2.95 opening weekend special price on drinks through September 24th. They are open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
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On July 1st, Thai Fresh at 8409 SE Division Street closed its doors after nearly 15 years. Owners Vong Soutavong and Aroon Onchumchit made the difficult choice to cease operations after a series of events prompted the couple’s eventual relocation to Thailand later this year. HÂP Restaurant will move into the space, opening later this summer with startup help from the Thai Fresh owners.
Thai Fresh began in 2008 after Soutavong and Onchumchit lost their jobs. After a decade of employment, the company they worked for sold, leaving them searching for new opportunities. A family-run restaurant was an attractive option for the partners. However, they faced challenges getting started in a difficult economy. “We looked around for a couple of months, then we gave up because the rent and leases were so crazy expensive,” remembered Soutavong. He started working at another restaurant but kept an eye on available spaces. “One morning, I just looked at Craigslist and saw the ad for a price that we were looking for,” said Soutavong.
The storefront was appealing, with affordable rent, but the new restaurateurs were concerned that they may not thrive around existing businesses. “At first, we were scared because we looked around the neighborhood, and it was all Vietnamese and Chinese restaurants in that area. I was like, ‘Oh my God, we’ll be the only Thai restaurant,'” explained Soutavong. However, despite early concern, they signed the lease and began building their restaurant with Soutavong’s older sister, Khemphone, as the head chef. Even before opening, people from the neighborhood would offer encouragement for the new food option, affirming their decision to open on SE Division Street.
That early support from neighbors was essential to Soutavong and Onchumchit’s sense of community. They feel strongly that their business needs to offer more than food to neighbors. Since opening, Thai Fresh has supported numerous school fundraisers and educational events for students interested in business. The owners supported the formation of the Jade District and have catered many community events throughout the region. Their social impact in the area is nearly as well known as their freshly prepared food.
Despite loyal customers and a good reputation, they have faced many challenges. When Thai Fresh opened in 2008, the country was experiencing economic hardships, and people cut back on spending, including eating out. Even in that environment, the business took root and expanded into the neighboring storefront to add more dining space. The area grew in the first eleven years, and business was thriving. The pandemic nearly toppled that success, as it had for many restaurants. However, Thai Fresh survived shutdowns and closed dining rooms, again with the community’s support. Ultimately, Vong Soutavong feels the street reconfiguration of SE Division instigated his restaurant’s closure.
Left to right: Aroon Onchumchit, Mayor Ted Wheeler, Vong Soutavong. Image courtesy Thai Fresh
In 2022, the combined TriMet Division Transit Project and the Portland Bureau of Transportation’s Outer Division Safety Project completed construction. These projects reconfigured much of the street, adding raised medians that prevent many left turns and protected bike lanes that substantially reduced street parking. Engineers removed Thai Fresh’s curbside parking and replaced it with a protected bike lane and two parking spaces between the bike traffic and the travel lanes. Thai Fresh guests must share those spaces with customers from the other businesses on the block. Soutavong observed a dramatic customer decrease after crews installed the raised medians and reduced the parking options. Although people may readjust to SE Division’s changes over time, waiting for that to happen was not feasible, making it time for the Thai Fresh owners to move on.
Vong Soutavong and Aroon Onchumchit will move to Onchumchit’s native Thailand to care for family and plan their next chapter in life. Chef Khemphone will retire knowing she held the highest standards for preparing fresh foods from scratch. That insistence on made-to-order cooking attracted many longtime customers with food allergies. Staff always considered any special request and could easily omit an ingredient to satisfy a guest.
The Thai Fresh owners are now helping the HÂP Restaurant staff prepare for a successful opening. Soutavong is already raving about HÂP’s food and the chef chosen for his steamed buns. “His job is to perfect that [dish] and trust me, he definitely perfected it,” remarked Soutavong. Over the last month, Soutavong and Onchumchit have repeatedly thanked their customers and business community for welcoming their restaurant and family into the community. They are sad to say goodbye to all their friends but remain optimistic about their coming adventure and the next chapter of life.
By
Jacob Loeb
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On July 22nd, Mixteca Restaurant announced on the company’s Instagram account that they plan to cease operations at their restaurant and bar, refocusing on the original business model of catering and farmers’ market food service. Staff will offer the final dinner service at 2320 SE 82nd Avenue on July 23rd from 4 to 9 p.m. This closure concludes a three-year effort to provide cuisine from Oaxaca, Mexico, at SE 82nd Avenue and Division Street.
Doña Paula Asunción was born in Oaxaca, Mexico, and brought her lifetime of cooking experience with her to Portland when she began working in the food industry in 1994. With training and support from Hacienda CDC’s Micro Merchant program, she began selling tamales and mole sauces at the St. John’s Farmers’ Market in 2012, eventually forming Mixteca Catering LLC in 2013. By 2016, they had a space at the Portland Mercado and the Cartlandia food cart pod (now called Springwater Cart Park). Those successful operations led to the expansion into a full restaurant in 2019.
Mixteca took over the former Buckley’s Catch Sports Pub on SE 82nd Avenue and transformed it into a space with outdoor seating and a welcoming exterior. As work began upgrading the new restaurant, the pandemic set in. Their first year open faced shutdowns and seating limits, followed by years of diminished business and vandalism. The official closing message on social media references those hardships and explains other reasons for the change in business operations.
“It is with great sadness that we announce the closing of Mixteca Restaurant. Our last last day at our location is tomorrow. These past three years have been incredibly challenging and rewarding. We opened at the onset of the pandemic and the experience has taught us a lot, however, the recent break ins and slow business made us rethink how to best move forward post pandemic. We want to thank all of our wonderful guests and employees for supporting us over these past years. What began as a dream venture grew into a place that had welcomed guests from all over Oregon and beyond who were looking for a small piece of Oaxacan food. We are extremely humbled that so many embraced our restaurant and that we were able to succeed as long as we had, in a very challenging time. For a restaurant to survive and thrive in such unprecedented times is an accomplishment of which we can all be proud. And we could not have done it without all of you. Please continue to follow our page, visit us at the local farmer’s markets and if you have upcoming events, please think of us for catering. We would love to be a part of your special events! Thank you all.” – Mixteca Restaurant’s Instagram account
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This week Lazy Susan announced plans to close their prominent charcoal-grill-centric restaurant on July 23rd after nearly three years in operation. Crews will then set to work renovating the storefront at 7937 SE Stark Street, transforming it into a new dining experience run by the same individuals behind Lazy Susan. The eatery’s owner will pivot to Thai-inspired cuisine, aligning the menu with his other successful restaurants.
Akkapong “Earl” Ninsom started work on the Lazy Susan ahead of the pandemic, opening in one of the worst environments for dining amid shutdowns and seating restrictions. However, by outward appearances, Lazy Susan defied the odds building a loyal and regular following. Unfortunately, it never reached the same success as Ninsom’s other ventures, and the economics of this restaurant had too many headwinds. “Margins have been so tight that it’s time to make a pivot to benefit everybody that works here and the owners,” explained Tim Soucie, General Manager of the Lazy Susan. Soucie revealed the closure to staff on Monday, offering to find people positions at other Ninsom-owned locations and encouraging them to reapply for the new restaurant when it opens.
Earl Ninsom is known for creating food destinations focusing on distinct parts of Thai cooking, including recent successes like Phuket Cafe, PaaDee, and Eem. Lazy Susan was a departure from that model, and Tim Soucie says the new restaurant will align Montavilla’s location with Ninsom’s other ventures. “It will fit within the brand of the company,” remarked Soucie. The same woodworkers who created the Lazy Susan interior will update the restaurant, preserving what they can while creating a new seating experience. Painters will rework the color pallet, and electricians will change the lighting ahead of the relaunch.
Tim Soucie will continue to serve as General Manager when the space reopens, and he is excited about the change, having complete faith in Ninsom’s vision and track record. However, Soucie will miss the seasonal aspect of the old restaurant and its creative takes on American-style foods prepared over the charcoal grill. Ultanantly he is happy that the restaurant will remain on Stark Street and his staff can continue their efforts to delight Portlanders through food. “We appreciate how welcoming Montavilla has been with us. This is such a unique community within Portland. We want to bring something new and fresh that will draw more people to the neighborhood, something that is a little bit different, a little bit edgy,” said Soucie.
Fans of Lazy Susan have one week to enjoy their favorite items before the chefs retire the menu. Details about the new restaurant should arrive after the renovation crew begins work next month. However, Ninsom is known to have recently worked on a Bangkok Chinatown inspired restaurant idea. Information about that project places its opening date in alignment with this remodel, hinting at a potential theme for this space. Construction should last four to six weeks, with completion at the end of Summer.
By
Jacob Loeb
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On July 1st, Growler’s Taproom at 803 SE 82nd Avenue will change its name to Covert Cafe in recognition of its new food menu and expanded service. Patrons can continue to order from an extensive selection of beers on tap but now have access to an array of meaty dishes to pair with their brew of choice. Since its early days, the drink-focused business partnered with food cart operators to offer meal options for guests. However, after the Thai Me Drunken Noodle owner decided to shut down their 82nd Avenue cart, Covert Cafe owner Joe Rodgers looked to his past restaurant experience to fill the void.
Inside the cafe, Rodgers pushed the counter seating forward to make room for a commercial flat-top grill and food prep area in a triangular kitchen behind the bar. That work caused a week’s long closure but added more seats for the returning customers. The original live-edge bartop became window seating, and Rodgers updated the sound system with tablet-based controls for quick adjustments.
Efficiency is essential to running the cafe, as Rodgers is the only employee. Covering food service and bartender duties will challenge his skills. However, he is no stranger to working alone and has run the location by himself for five years. His food service skills were honed at an early age making this work second nature. “I’ve been doing bar and restaurant stuff since I was 14, I did 16 years in the kitchen, and then I wised up and got a front-of-house job so I could make more money,” remembered Rodgers. He then worked as a consultant helping other business owners optimize their operations. Eventually, an opportunity lured him back into hospitality work, and it has consumed his life since. “Finally, I ended up deciding to do it for myself because I’ve not seen enough people go crazy trying to do it,” said Rodgers sarcastically.
Covert Cafe’s owner Joe Rodgers
Over the last few weeks, Rodgers tested recipes with his regulars, finding the right flavor notes. The menu is unique compared to the cart offerings guest had become accustomed to. It features comfort foods with a significant meat focus. “I do lots of steak because I buy half the cow at a time,” explained Rodgers. He chose quality food items that would keep prices within reason. “I’m trying to focus on the idea of not pricing out my neighborhood,” explained Rodgers. However, that attention to cost and his need for efficiency does not mean the cafe needs to cut corners. “My bacon jam takes 16 hours to make. Everything in it is made from scratch in-house.” Similarly, he prepares the other menu items with the same attention to process.
Rodgers explained that the name change to Covert Cafe is a nod to the location’s inconspicuous placement. “We’re kind of hidden. Nobody really expects that this place is here.” He is comfortable with some anonymity, as the cafe focuses on serving the neighborhood, but he looks forward to increasing his customer base and, ultimately, the cafe’s hours. “The whole goal is to get busy enough that I can’t do it anymore. Then I freak out and hire somebody.” With enough money coming in, Rodgers envisions opening for breakfast and lunch sometime in the future. He already has a space plumbed and ready for an espresso machine.
For Rodgers, the renovation work is nearly done. He recently finished expanding his outdoor covered seating area, taking over the space once reserved for carts. He built the new addition with few openings, blocking most light and providing a more enjoyable viewing environment for those watching the projected programming in the “mini movie theater” on the patio. Entertainment, games, beer, and food play into the harmonious community that frequents this location. Now that he has integrated food service into the business, instead of through a cart partnership, Rodgers feels customers will have a reliably great experience, which is what he wants most. “Community is a huge piece of what we do here, and I just want to make everybody happy with a good meal,” said Rodgers. Covert Cafe is open from 4 p.m. to midnight, Wednesday through Sunday.
By
Jacob Loeb
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Breakside Brewery recently announced plans to open a summer pop-up inside Moto PDX at 8826 SE Stark Street. Starting this weekend, they will transform the motorcycle cafe into a music-rich venue featuring a bratwurst-centric menu alongside a collection of the company’s beverages. The Breakside Pop-up is open Wednesday through Friday from 4 to 11 p.m. and on weekends from noon to 11 p.m.
The Breakside pop-up is family-friendly, with kids welcome inside the shop until 7 p.m. and even later for outside seating, where children can stay until 9 p.m. The June 30th launch features an indie-folk showcase. The Breakside team is excited to open a space in Montavilla and looks forward to meeting many of the residents.
By
Jacob Loeb
Neighborhood news site focused on buildings and changing businesses
